by Liz von Achen
New York, New York — it’s a helluva town. “The city” (as it’s known to suburbanites living east on Long Island) is world-renowned as the ethnic ‘melting pot’ of America. If you’ve ever visited “the city,” you’ve probably visited a New York delicatessen. Perhaps you’ve had a pastrami or corned beef on rye at a popular Kosher deli such as Katz’s Delicatessen, (known as the city’s oldest) or the world famous Carnegie Deli, a New York city landmark since 1937.
There has been much debate about which deli is “THE BEST” deli in New York, and I suspect that THE BEST deli in New York probably isn’t actually even in “the city.” THE BEST deli in New York is most likely east of Manhattan — on Long Island, nestled somewhere in the suburban sprawl of Nassau and Suffolk counties.
There is nothing quite like a Long Island deli — anywhere. Trust me on that. Many have tried and failed to recreate the magic of the Long Island deli in other parts of the country such as Las Vegas or Southern Florida. For some reason, Long Island deli sandwiches cannot be accurately replicated anywhere. It’s the bread. Actually, I’m told it’s the water in the bread which makes the bagels and kaiser rolls of this area taste so darn good.
A typical Long Island deli will feature Boar's Head cold cuts.
Long Island deli coffee is also generally top-notch, and a morning stop at a deli for a cup of coffee and an egg sandwich or buttered roll ‘to go’ is de rigueur ’round this neck of New York. Out-of-towners should know some Long Island “deli-lingo” before placing an order. In most other parts of the country, “regular” simply means caffeinated coffee, as in; “would you like regular or decaffeinated coffee?” When you order a “regular” coffee from a Long Island deli, what you get is cream and about 3 teaspoons of sugar in your caffeinated coffee.
Also, the popular oblong sandwich made of meats, cheeses and vegetables on crusty italian or french bread is called a “hero,” not a sub, not a hoagie, not a blimpie or a wedge. On Long Island, it’s called a “hero.” And a popular hero option found on Long Island is a pepper and egg hero. Long Islanders like their egg sandwiches, and the most traditional of all breakfast sandwich delights is perhaps a bacon and egg on a kaiser roll. I like mine with mayo and ketchup. Ohhhhh, I am always haunted by sweet dreams of that sandwich whenever I’m away from New York! Also popular on a typical deli menu is a buttered bagel or buttered roll. I haven’t really come across the “butter” sandwich being a popular item anywhere else in the country. It’s a “New York” thing.
Biting Into an Ethnic Egg Sandwich
Ella’s Market and European Deli in West Sayville is definitely not THE BEST deli in New York. It’s not that it’s a bad deli, it’s actually a good deli. Ella’s just doesn’t have that certain je ne sais quoi that THE BEST deli in New York should have. Ella’s does however have an interesting breakfast sandwich to try.
Ella's Market and European Deli at 14 Washington Avenue in West Sayville, New York.
In addition to traditional Long Island egg sandwich fare, Ella, who is of Eastern European descent, serves what she calls “The Wake Me Up.” It’s a kielbasa and egg sandwich on a kaiser roll with horseradish. Definitely NOT a typical Long Island egg sandwich! It’s the sort of thing you should try at least once in your life. While no replacement for my traditional favorite, it’s a very tasty combination; the kielbasa and horseradish coming together in a spicy sweet meld. The “Wake Me Up” breakfast special at Ella’s Market is $3.49 plus tax, and includes a cup of coffee.
Ella's "Wake Me Up" breakfast sandwich is made of kielbasa, eggs and horseradish and a fresh, poppy seeded kaiser roll.
Long Island deli sandwiches come wrapped in white butcher paper. A deli serving a sandwich in a styrofoam box would be ridiculed, boycotted and chased off the island.
Also, most kaiser roll sandwiches are made with a poppy seeded roll. If you don’t want poppy seeds, you should request a plain roll or bagel, or alternate bread. Do this prior to ordering your sandwich, so as NOT to piss-off the person in whose hands the fate of your sandwich lies. Long Islanders have little patience for pampered, picky, whiners who would force a remake of an entire sandwich on account of a few poppy seeds. It’s YOUR responsibility to request no poppy seeds, and if you forget, and your sandwich comes with poppy seeds, suck it up. DO NOT attempt to return that sandwich for a redo!
In the weeks to come, as I explore “the city” and it’s surrounding hamlets, I will post updates on more deli experiences and interesting deli finds. Hopefully, we will get closer to a definitive answer on this very serious subject; what is THE BEST delicatessen in New York?
